Things to know before you go to Antarctica

Before you go

We went to the Antarctic Peninsula in November 2023 on the Ocean Endeavour from Ushuaia. These are the things we'd tell anyone planning the same trip.

Ships only visit in the southern summer, from about November to March. We went in November, early in the season, and saw plenty of Gentoo penguins, humpback whales and seals. If seeing penguin chicks matters to you, go later, from around January. There's more about our voyage on our Antarctica page.

The expedition team will brief you before the first landing, and the rules are strict. Keep your distance from penguins and seals, never block a penguin's path to the sea, and leave nothing behind. Expect your boots, bags and outer layers to be cleaned and checked for seeds before you go ashore, so nothing is carried from one site to another.

You'll switch between a warm ship, open zodiacs and hikes up snowy slopes like the one at Portal Point, sometimes in the same afternoon. A base layer, a warm mid layer and a waterproof, windproof outer layer let you adjust quickly. Zodiac rides are wet, so waterproof trousers matter as much as the jacket.

Some of our best wildlife moments were at a distance, like watching whales surface in Charlotte Bay from the top of Portal Point, so bring binoculars. Cold drains batteries quickly, so carry spares in an inside pocket. The glare off the snow and ice is strong, and you'll want sun cream and sunglasses even when it's cold. Our Antarctica Packing List has the full list.

The Drake Passage takes about two days each way and can be rough. Our return crossing was calm, but pack seasickness tablets or patches anyway and speak to your GP or pharmacist before you go. Most operators insist on travel insurance that includes emergency medical evacuation, so check the small print before you buy a policy.

We made landings at Neko Harbour, Cuverville Island and Whalers Bay on Deception Island, took zodiac cruises around Paradise Bay and Charlotte Bay, and hiked at Portal Point. Kayaking in Orne Harbour, paddling through brash ice, was a highlight. Kayak places are usually limited, so ask about them when you book.

Arrive in Ushuaia a few days before your ship sails. A delayed flight won't cost you the trip, and you get time to see Tierra del Fuego National Park, which we toured by taxi. Say yes to every zodiac trip, however cold the morning looks.