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Antarctica · November 2023

Our trip to Antarctica

From Ushuaia across the Drake Passage on the Ocean Endeavour with Intrepid Travel and Karl Watson: Neko Harbour, Cuverville Island, kayaking at Orne Harbour, Portal Point and Deception Island.

Start at day 1 Watch the films

  • 11diary
    entries
  • 2crossings of the
    Drake Passage
  • 2films on
    YouTube

Day by day

Every day of the trip in order. Choose any day to read the full diary: where we went, how we got there and where we stayed.

Thu 9 Nov 2023

Arriving in Buenos Aires

The first day of our Antarctica trip: landing in Buenos Aires, checking into La Fresque Hotel and exploring the area before the early flight to Ushuaia.

Read the day: Arriving in Buenos Aires

Fri 10 Nov 2023

Arriving in Ushuaia

We flew from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia and checked into the Wyndham Garden Hotel del Glaciar, a few days early to explore before boarding for Antarctica.

Read the day: Arriving in Ushuaia

Sat 11 Nov 2023

Exploring Tierra del Fuego National Park

A day in Tierra del Fuego National Park by taxi from Ushuaia: the End of the World post office, Lago Acigami, Laguna Negra, Cascada Río Pipo and beavers.

Read the day: Exploring Tierra del Fuego National Park

Sun 12 Nov 2023

Preparing for Departure and Boarding the Ocean Endeavour

Our last morning in Ushuaia: last-minute shopping, lunch at Ramos Generales El Almacén, meeting the crew and boarding the Ocean Endeavour for Antarctica.

Read the day: Preparing for Departure and Boarding the Ocean Endeavour

Tue 14 Nov 2023

Sailing the Drake Passage

Crossing the Drake Passage on the Ocean Endeavour, meeting fellow passengers and attending lectures on Antarctica's wildlife before reaching the ice.

Read the day: Sailing the Drake Passage

Wed 15 Nov 2023

Arrival at the Antarctic Peninsula

Our first landing on the Antarctic Peninsula at Neko Harbour, with Gentoo penguins and humpback whales, then a sunset zodiac tour of Paradise Bay.

Read the day: Arrival at the Antarctic Peninsula

Thu 16 Nov 2023

Exploring Cuverville Island and Kayaking Adventure

Day 7 in Antarctica: Gentoo penguins and Weddell seals on Cuverville Island, kayaking through brash ice in Orne Harbour and a barbecue on deck.

Read the day: Exploring Cuverville Island and Kayaking Adventure

Fri 17 Nov 2023

Whale Watching and Hiking at Portal Point

Day 8 in Antarctica: a humpback calf circled our zodiac in Charlotte Bay, then we hiked the snowy hills at Portal Point to watch whales and seals.

Read the day: Whale Watching and Hiking at Portal Point

Sat 18 Nov 2023

Adventure at Deception Island

We sailed through Neptune's Bellows into Deception Island, the flooded caldera of an active volcano, and landed among Gentoo penguins at Whalers Bay.

Read the day: Adventure at Deception Island

Sun 19 Nov 2023

Days 10 & 11: Calm Return Through the Drake Passage

Days 10 and 11 of our Antarctica expedition: sailing back across a calm Drake Passage to Ushuaia on the Ocean Endeavour, talking over the trip.

Read the day: Days 10 & 11: Calm Return Through the Drake Passage

Tue 21 Nov 2023

Back in Ushuaia and the Journey Home

Back in Ushuaia after Antarctica: a last hike to the Martial Glacier viewpoint, then the flight to Buenos Aires and home.

Read the day: Back in Ushuaia and the Journey Home

Planning your own?

Everything we wish we'd known before we went, written from this trip.

Before you go

Things to Know

Choosing a trip, the Drake Passage and what to expect on board, from our trip.

Read Things to Know

What we packed

Packing list

What we took, and what Intrepid lent us.

See the packing list

The whole trip

Antarctica

Everything from our Antarctic expedition in one place.

Explore Antarctica

Antarctic Peninsula weather this week

ANTARCTIC PENINSULA 7 day Weather

Watch the trip

Two films: crossing the Drake Passage, and the Peninsula itself.

Watch the films on YouTube