Antarctica

Our Antarctica Trip

In November 2023 we sailed from Ushuaia to the Antarctic Peninsula on the Ocean Endeavour. The whole trip took 16 days, from Buenos Aires and back. We went with Intrepid Travel, on a trip alongside YouTuber Karl Watson of Karl Watson: Travel Documentaries. We flew into Ushuaia a few days before the ship left, crossed the Drake Passage, and spent our days on the Peninsula going ashore by zodiac, cruising the bays and, on one day, kayaking. The wildlife often came much closer than we expected.

What we saw

• Gentoo penguins at almost every landing: at Neko Harbour, on Cuverville Island and on the beach at Whalers Bay on Deception Island.

• Humpback whales in Neko Harbour and Charlotte Bay, where a calf circled our zodiac.

• A leopard seal in Paradise Bay, and Weddell seals resting on Cuverville Island.

• Brash ice all around us when we kayaked in Orne Harbour, and snowy hills at Portal Point, where we hiked up to watch the whales below.

Getting there

Most Peninsula trips start in Ushuaia, Argentina. We flew in from Buenos Aires and gave ourselves a few spare days, which meant no stress about catching the ship and time for a taxi tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park. From Ushuaia the ship has to cross the Drake Passage, which takes about two days each way. On the way south we went to lectures about Antarctic wildlife and got to know the other passengers. Our crossing back was calm, but it isn't always, so pack seasickness remedies.

Planning your trip

Before you go, read our Antarctica Packing List and our Things to Know page, which covers timing, landings and looking after the wildlife. Our Our Trip page links to every day of the voyage.