Asia · December 2022 to January 2023
Thailand, 2022 to 2023
Three and a half weeks over New Year, 28 December 2022 to 21 January 2023: the River Kwai, Erawan Falls, a Bangkok river cruise, Khao Sok, Phuket, Phi Phi and Railay.
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The trip in brief
The short version of our second Thailand trip, taken from the diaries further down the page.
Three and a half weeks over New Year
We went back to Thailand from 28 December 2022 to 21 January 2023, less than a year after the quarantine trip. This time we started on the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi, saw the new year in on a river cruise in Bangkok, then headed south to Khao Sok, Phuket, Koh Phi Phi and the Krabi coast before a few last days back in Bangkok.
Where we stayed
A private van took us from the airport to the River Kwai Bridge Resort in Kanchanaburi, a calm place to get over the flight. In Khao Sok we stayed at the Riverside Cottages, with a night in a floating bamboo bungalow on Cheow Lan Lake. On Koh Phi Phi it was the ChaoKoh Hotel, on Railay the Railay Bay Resort and Spa, and in Ao Nang the Ava Sea Krabi Resort. The last few nights were at the Sukosol Hotel in Bangkok.
Getting around
We flew from Bangkok to Surat Thani for Khao Sok, and joined a small group for the boat trip on Cheow Lan Lake. In Phuket we hired scooters and rode the coast roads out to the Big Buddha, and we hired bikes again in Ao Nang to reach the Emerald Pool and the Blue Pool near Khlong Thom. The ferry from Phuket to Koh Phi Phi takes around two hours, and Railay can only be reached by boat.
The best bits
Swimming in the pools at Erawan was one of the best parts of our time around Kanchanaburi, even on a second visit. After dark on Phi Phi we swam among bioluminescent plankton, where every movement set off tiny blue sparks, and we still find it hard to describe properly. Standing on the beach at Mai Khao while planes came in just metres overhead gave us some of the most dramatic photos of the trip.
Going back
Near the end we went back to the Ancient City outside Bangkok for a second visit, to see our favourite buildings again. This was our second trip to Thailand in a year and it won’t be the last. We’re back for New Year 2027, and the plan is here.
Our route
Seven stops in three and a half weeks, from the River Kwai to the Andaman coast and back.
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28 to 30 Dec
Kanchanaburi
The River Kwai Bridge Resort, the bridge itself, the glass Skywalk and a second visit to Erawan Falls.
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31 Dec and 1 Jan
Bangkok
Damnoen Saduak on the way in, fireworks from an Alangka river cruise at midnight, then the Erawan Museum and the Ancient City.
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2 to 5 Jan
Khao Sok
Canoeing, a night safari, a floating bungalow on Cheow Lan Lake and an ethical elephant park.
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5 to 10 Jan
Phuket
Simon Cabaret and Bangla Road in Patong, scooters to the Big Buddha and Old Town, and Plane Beach at Mai Khao.
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11 and 12 Jan
Koh Phi Phi
The ChaoKoh Hotel, Viking Cave, Pileh Bay, Maya Bay and swimming with glowing plankton.
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13 to 17 Jan
Railay and Ao Nang
A sunrise climb to the Railay viewpoint, Phra Nang Cave, then bikes to the Emerald Pool and the Monkey Trail to Pai Plong.
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18 to 21 Jan
Bangkok
The Sukosol Hotel, the Grand Palace, the Makkasan Skywalk, the Tichuca rooftop bar and the Ancient City again, then home.
Day by day
Every day of the trip in order. Choose any day to read the full diary: where we went, how we got there and where we stayed.
Day 1: Arrival and The River Kwai
Arriving in Thailand for our 2023 trip and taking a private van to the River Kwai Bridge Resort in Kanchanaburi to recover from the long flight.
Day 2: Skywalks, Bridges, and Night Markets
Visiting the Bridge over the River Kwai, walking the glass Kanchanaburi Skywalk above the river confluence, then street food at the night market.
Day 3: The Tiers of Erawan
Climbing the seven tiers of the waterfall in Erawan National Park, Kanchanaburi, and swimming in the bright blue pools on each level.
Day 4: Floating Markets and a Riverside New Year
Damnoen Saduak floating market in the morning, then New Year's Eve in Bangkok watching the fireworks from the deck of an Alangka River Cruise.
Read the day: Day 4: Floating Markets and a Riverside New Year
Day 5: Ancient Cities and Museums
New Year's Day at the Erawan Museum with its giant three-headed elephant, then the Ancient City and its replicas of Thailand's temples.
Day 6: Khao Sok by Canoe and Night Safari
Flying to Surat Thani, staying at the Riverside Cottages in Khao Sok, canoeing the river and a torchlit night safari spotting spiders and civets.
Day 7: Sunset over Cheow Lan Lake
A longtail boat among the limestone karsts of Cheow Lan Lake in Khao Sok, a trek to a waterfall and sunset from a floating bamboo bungalow.
Day 8: Mist Safaris and Hot Springs
A dawn mist safari on Cheow Lan Lake spotting hornbills and monkeys, a hike in Khao Sok National Park and a soak in the local hot springs.
Days 9-12: Elephants, Hot Springs and Patong
An ethical elephant visit in Khao Sok, Rommanee Hot Springs on the drive to Phuket, then Simon Cabaret, Patong Beach, Bangla Road and a first scooter ride.
Days 13-14: Phuket Exploration and Plane Beach
Exploring Phuket by scooter, from a 5.45am start for the Big Buddha to the pastel streets of Old Town, then planes landing overhead at Mai Khao Plane Beach.
Read the day: Days 13-14: Phuket Exploration and Plane Beach
Day 15: Bound for Koh Phi Phi
Taking the ferry across to Koh Phi Phi and checking into the ChaoKoh Hotel on an island with no cars, clear bays and a slower pace.
Day 16: Bioluminescence and Iconic Bays
A Phi Phi boat trip to Viking Cave, Pileh Bay and Maya Bay, sunset at sea, then swimming with glowing bioluminescent plankton after dark.
Day 17: The Vertical Cliffs of Railay
Arriving by boat at Railay Beach, checking into the Railay Bay Resort and Spa and watching the sun set behind the peninsula's limestone karsts.
Day 18: Sunrises and Cave Secrets
Phra Nang (Princess) Cave and the Bat Cave, another Andaman sunset, then a dawn hike to the Railay viewpoint the next morning.
Day 19: The Markets of Ao Nang
Moving from Railay to Ao Nang, staying at the Ava Sea Krabi Resort and spending the evening among the food stalls of the local night market.
Day 20: The Emerald Pool and Blue Pool
Riding hired bikes inland from Ao Nang to the Emerald Pool and Blue Pool near Khlong Thom, two spring-fed pools in the Krabi forest.
Days 21-22: Monkey Trails and Secret Sands
Walking the steep Monkey Trail from Ao Nang to the quiet beach at Pai Plong, then the morning flight back to Bangkok and the Sukosol Hotel.
Day 23: The Grand Palace and Makkasan Skywalk
The Grand Palace in the morning, a sunset walk along the Makkasan Skywalk as the city lights came on, then drinks at the Tichuca Rooftop Bar.
Day 24: Back to the Ancient City
A second visit to the Erawan Museum and the Ancient City (Muang Boran) outside Bangkok, revisiting favourite buildings and walking the peaceful grounds again.
Days 25-26: The Journey Home
The end of our 2023 Thailand trip: the train to Suvarnabhumi and the flight home to London via Istanbul, after three and a half weeks around the Land of Smiles.
Planning your own?
Everything we wish we'd known before we went, written from this trip.
Before you go
Things to Know
Visas, money, getting around and etiquette, from our trips.
Watch the trip
Three films from this trip, and the 2022 films in the same playlist.